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Spaghetti Western
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San Juan Mountains
Don Williams and Kelly Callan
08/01/2007
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Photograph by Don Williams
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There’s no doubt that there was symbolism in the air.
We were at the Handlebars Bar and Saloon in
Silverton, Colo., enjoying an authentic western lunch, celebrating the 25th
anniversary of our first ride together. Of course, this time, rather than two-up
on a 1981 Yamaha 550 Seca in Southern California, we arrived on a Ducati ST3 S
ABS and a Moto Guzzi Breva V 1100.
Touring the 236-mile San Juan Skyway Scenic Byway on an
unmatched pair of Italian sport touring machines seemed natural to us, despite
the fact that every other bike we saw on the trip was either a Honda Gold Wing,
a dresser or a bagger. Clearly, there are some people missing out on some
outstanding sport riding through the San Juan Mountains in the southwest corner
of the Centennial State.
 The San Juan Skyway Scenic Byway ranges from
narrow canyons to wide-open valleys. Photograph by Ed Stasium. (Click image to enlarge)
Anchored at the north by Telluride and Durango in the south,
the loop is actually two distinctive rides. About equal in length, they have
quite different attitudes, but they share a love of altitude. With passes
exceeding 10,000 feet above sea level on both halves, the fuel injection systems
on the bikes were in for a workout.
The two sides of the loop also provided unique challenges for
the bikes. The east side, which passes through historic mining towns, is
virtually non-stop tight twisties for over 40 miles on US 550 between historic
Ouray at the north and the southern terminus of Old Lime Creek Road in the
south, with high-speed sweepers the norm extending at both ends.
Famously known as the Million Dollar Highway along much of the
technical stretch, the road exposes the advantages and liabilities of each
machine. The Breva’s air-cooled, push-rod transverse V-twin 1064cc motor is a
torquey beast, effortlessly pulling in any of its deliberately shifted six
gears, even with the heavier rider aboard, plus three luggage boxes bursting
with content. Aiming for authority rather than excitability, the Breva has a muscular shaft-driven push that is in no particular hurry to
get where it most assuredly will arrive. Horsepower peaks at 7,800 rpm, but
there’s really no need to take it beyond 6,000 rpm, where maximum torque is
developed.
 RIDING STYLE (left)
Helmet: Suomy Spec-1R Extreme Flowers
Leathers: Ducati Old Times Lady
Gloves: Ducati Smart
Boots: Sidi Vertigo
RIDING STYLE (right)
Helmet: Shoei X-Eleven Kagayama
Leathers: Olympia Moto Sports Mercury Flex Tech
Gloves: Spidi Tre Composite
Boots: Sidi Strada Evo Te-Por. Photograph by Kellly Callan. (Click image to enlarge)
Conversely, the 90-degree liquid-cooled 992cc L-twin of the ST3
S, with Desmodromic mechanisms controlling three valves per cylinder, likes to
spin the crankshaft a bit faster, as you would expect from a Ducati. While the
six-speed transmission on the Breva feels almost superfluous, it is welcome on
the smooth-shifting ST3 S. With more peak torque and horsepower than the Breva,
the ST3 S is a brisk motor that invites an active throttle hand. The engine is
also pushing about 50 fewer pounds that are packaged in a more aerodynamic
profile, accentuating the sport end of the sport/touring equation.
The lightness of the ST3 S serves it well in tight quarters, as
does its 56.3-inch wheelbase, which is two-and-a-half inches more compact than
the Breva. The Ducati intuitively slices its way through the countless hairpins
and switchbacks—particularly in the Guston area where we encountered bighorn
sheep crossing the road, looking at us as the odd curiosities we were. Begging
for more as the rider rows the gearbox, the ST3 S, in its heart, is a
semi-upright sport bike. Though not clip-ons, the bars on the ST3 S are low and
the footpegs high, putting the rider in a competitive position.
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