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Spaghetti Western
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San Juan Mountains
Don Williams and Kelly Callan
08/01/2007
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Photograph by Don Williams
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Back on the road, the westward sweep of the San Juan Skyway is
a welcome respite from the touristy east. With few cars to interest the CSP,
State Route 145 between Telluride and Dolores is a sport rider’s dream. For most
of the route the sweepers are long and fast, making it possible to creep up into
triple digits without realizing it. Of course, this is easier on the Ducati, as
the rider tucks in behind the fairing and channels Casey Stoner for some MotoGP
inspiration. Sitting upright behind a windshield, the Guzzi rider will be more
aware of his speed, but the bike still easily exceeds the highway’s speed limit.
Without governance from either slow four-wheelers or law enforcement, simply
ride at a natural pace. You only need to slow down for the historic mining and
fur-trapping town of Rico (Spanish for "rich"), and its 205 inhabitants.
The brakes on both bikes were amply tested in specific areas on
this stretch and acquitted themselves nicely. However, we certainly give a nod
to the ABS on the ST3 S. In fact, the ABS will be of more use to more riders
than the high-end Showa forks and Öhlins shock that earns the trailing S in ST3
S. The stock settings and action is superb, so the wide range of adjustment
seems unnecessary for touring—hard-core sport riders may disagree. The Breva is
comfortable and never wallows in turns, so, despite being a relatively sober
bike, the Breva’s suspension is outstanding for its intended duty.
Photograph by Don Williams.
At the south end of the loop, there’s a detour on State Route
184 that clips off the uninteresting town of Cortez, but also the fascinating
Mesa Verde National Park and its ancient cliff dwellings. As this was a riding
excursion, we devoured 184 with glee as it linked Dolores and Mancos. Again, we
were welcomed by wide-open sweeping turns, and the CSP seemed to be engaged
elsewhere. The stretch from Mancos to Durango on US 160 is scenic, but, being a
relatively heavily traveled divided four-lane highway for much of its run, it is
less interesting on sport touring bikes.
Durango is a college town, which gives it an artistic vibe to
go with its plethora of outdoor sports, most notably skiing and mountain
biking—and the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. While not a first
class lodging destination, the Doubletree Hotel is a nice modern stop, with the
130-year-old Strater Hotel handling the historic end.
However, Durango has no shortage of excellent restaurants.
Perhaps the most interesting is East By Southwest, an Asian fusion restaurant
that serves sushi—750 miles from the nearest ocean. East By Southwest has the
raw materials flown in from all over the world via FedEx, then assembled by a
highly motivated team. The seven-course chef’s menu was truly extraordinary,
featuring perfectly executed Kobe beef, Tasmanian salmon, toro, seared marlin,
scallops with fois grois; and that barely scratches the surface of the feast of
flavors and textures. Regional favorites included the deep-fried squash blossom,
a masterful combination of textures. Bring a hearty appetite to the table if you
intend to tackle all seven courses, which can be modified to accommodate
vegetarians and those who desire cooked items. This is indulgence at its
best.
More traditional in Durango, but not the least bit staid, is
Seasons Rotisserie & Grill. Rich and luxurious, the Black Sea Bass fulfilled
a craving for cooked fish, while the dense pork chops were a tall structure that
probably required a building permit. We also sampled a New York strip steak and
mashed potatoes that satisfied any comfort food urges. For starters, we enjoyed
scallops wrapped in cucumber, plus duck pâté with pencil-thin breadstick and
biscotti.
As much as we pampered ourselves in Durango and Telluride, we
stuck to the basics at lunch stops, preferring satisfying meals in environments
that are not foreign to a pair of riders in leathers, boots and carrying
helmets. On the east half of the loop, that means the Handlebars Bar and Saloon
in Silverton where we enjoyed chili and a burger—both made from buffalo—in a
room filled with character, motorcycle enthusiasts and impressive displays of
taxidermy. In Dolores, the halfway spot on the west curve, the Naked Moose
(another stop highlighting locally taken trophies), with its garlic burger and
delicious tortilla soup, warmed and filled our stomachs. Most importantly, both
stops have a welcoming air that permeates the eateries.
We experienced the San Juan Skyway Scenic Byway a little
differently—foreign bikes, in more ways than one, in an atmosphere drenched in
Americana. Maybe it is time to start planning a ride through the Apennines on a
Harley and a Victory, and we will make sure to order spaghetti at least
once.
RESOURCES
www.ducatiusa.com
www.motoguzzi-us.com
www.innatlostcreek.com
www.allredsrestaurant.com
www.eastbysouthwest.com
www.seasonsofdurango.com
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