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Spaghetti Western
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San Juan Mountains
Don Williams and Kelly Callan
08/01/2007
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Photograph by Don Williams
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Taking the turns as surely as a locomotive, the Breva gives the
rider a secure feeling, welcome on a road that features sheer cliffs sans
guardrails on one side and solid granite walls on the other, as well as the
occasional landslide dropping gravel onto our helmets! Set a line on the Breva
and be prepared to stick with it. The Guzzi, especially when fully loaded, is
not eager to change position on a whim. Gearshifts are optional, as the motor
will work with you in either third or fourth gear, rewarding twists of the right
wrist with drama-free speed increases. That is fortunate, as the Guzzi’s clutch
has a hair-trigger engagement at the end of the lever travel. You eventually get
used to it, but a more gradual engagement would be preferable.
Living history from the turn of the
20th century is abundant in Mancos
(top) and Durango. Photography by Don Williams. (Click images to
enlarge)
Do note that the Million Dollar Highway portion of the San Juan
Skyway is heavily populated with RVs, automobiles, less sporting motorcycles and
the Colorado State Patrol. Happily, slower vehicles tend to be well behaved,
pulling over quickly to let faster machines overtake. Travel in the off-season
is advised for reduced traffic, but it is a relatively narrow window before and
after school summer vacation. Cold temperatures are the norm at these high
altitudes, and they reign during much of the autumn and spring.
Between Ouray and Placerville, the road opens up quite a bit,
as it is high desert rather than Rocky Mountains. Ridgway is an interesting stop
at the intersection of US 550 and State Route 62 (the only stoplight in the
county), as it is an old railroad settlement with a revitalized downtown. From
Ridgway to Telluride, things get a bit tighter and busier again, so relax for
those 15 miles, unless it is a quiet traffic day.
At the northern end of the San Juan Skyway, in Mountain Village
above Telluride, is a superb touring destination. The inviting Inn at Lost Creek
was ostensibly built for skiers—complete with skiing out its back doorstep, as
well as ski valet service—but it is also ideal for motor-cyclists. Your
machines are parked safely in an underground garage, behind two locked steel
doors. You won’t need your bike during your stay, as there is a convenient,
spectacular and complementary gondola system that links Mountain Village with
the surprisingly charming bohemian-meets-upscale Telluride.
Built for Telluride skiers, but ideal for
motorcyclists, the Inn at Lost Creek is a luxury haven nearly two miles above sea
level. (Click images to enlarge)
Fine restaurants are abundant in Telluride. Located on a high
ridge flanked by Telluride to the north and Mountain Village to the southwest,
and accessible only by gondola, is Allred’s, with its well-deserved reputation
as the premiere restaurant in the area. Not willing to rest solely on its
spectacular view from 1800-feet above Telluride, Allred’s contemporary American
menu takes many local ingredients and transforms them into culinary art.
Flavorful and not approaching gamey, the red deer was extraordinarily tender.
The beef ribs appear sans bones, accented by a honey-based BBQ sauce. Prior to
our main course, we partook in a sumptuous cream corn soup.
A non-riding day in Telluride can be spent exploring the
stylish shops in town, or on the many hiking and mountain biking trails.
However, the many spa services at the Inn at Lost Creek—ranging from hot stone
massages to reflexology treatment to gender-specific facials—make it difficult
to leave. The Inn’s spacious accommodations are equally inviting for
rejuvenating naps, and the rooftop spas stand ready for relaxation under the sun
or stars.
Just as the Inn at Lost Creek is a boutique hotel, so too is
its intimate 9545 Restaurant and Bar. Named after the altitude of the kitchen,
the cuisine is as modern American as its decor. Living up to its reputation as a
destination kitchen, the strawberry salad mixes together butter lettuce, sliced
strawberries, caramelized walnuts and goat cheese with a strawberry vinaigrette.
The result is a beautifully presented salad, with surprisingly delicate flavors.
Slices of elk make for a superb main course, as does the buffalo filet
mignon—the latter served with a delectable mushroom sauce and garlic cloves.
After this splendid dinner, the triple chocolate dessert nearly put us into a
coma—fortunately, our room was only steps away.
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