"I love all waste and solitary places, where we taste the pleasure of believing what we see is boudnless, as we wish our souls to be."—Percy Bysshe Shelley (Click image to enlarge)

Nearly 100 pounds lighter than the Honda, and with a bit more sport than tour incorporated into its design, the Yamaha FJR1300 is better suited for this portion of the trip. A more aggressive seating position, larger front brakes, shorter wheelbase, and 145 hp engine that would be at home in any superbike enable us to negotiate and enjoy the challenge of a tight, twisty canyon such as this.

	Saguaro cacti begin to gather like sentinels along the road, growing into a low desert forest as we drop down into the land of perpetual summer. (Click image to enlarge)

A few miles past the original outpost of Indian Gardens and still a few miles north of Sedona, the canyon opens up and offers a first glimpse down into the Verde Valley at the landscape that draws millions of people to this isolated location every year. Spread out before us in a dramatic, otherworldly panorama are wind-swept buttes and towering pillars of red sandstone ascending thousands of feet into the clear blue Arizona sky. It appears like a proto–Grand Canyon.

After a quick descent out of Oak Creek Canyon and a ride across the Midgley span bridge, we arrive in the small town of Sedona. Our first night of recuperation awaits at the Adobe Village Graham Inn, a bed and breakfast at the foot of Bell Rock, the most photographed rock monument in Sedona. Climbing into a king-size bed in one of the roomy, tastefully decorated suites is the ideal way to end a full day of riding across the desert and through the canyons. The only enticement away from the grand comfort of the bed is the exquisite aromas of homemade pastries and omelettes emanating from the dining room the next morning.