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Riding the Silverado Trail
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Silverado Trail
Holly Aguirre
01/01/2006
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Photograph by Kevin Wing
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Winding through napa Valley’s Silverado Trail—rows of magnificent
vineyards on one side, majestic mountains on the other—it is hard to imagine
that thievery, throat slitting and treachery were commonplace along the
now-serene stretch. Before Napa’s winemaking bonanza, notorious highway bandits
such as Black Bart harassed stagecoaches up and down the Trail, robbing them of
their payrolls and the day’s claim. Vintners had not yet realized the benefits
of an 1852 storm that flooded the valley’s main thoroughfare and bestowed a
rich, fertile soil that would eventually turn out what some argue is the finest
wine in the United States, even in the world. The stretch was narrow and craggy
and not easily passed. Until motorized buses took over in 1910, you took your
life into your own hands if you traveled the Trail; it was too dangerous.
 Photograph by Kevin Wing. (Click image to enlarge)
Today, parallel roads, the Trail and Highway 29, run the length of the
Valley’s 30 miles from the city of Napa in the south to Calistoga in the north.
Numerous roads crisscross the valley between the two at regular intervals,
making it easy to get around and difficult to get lost. They reveal breathtaking
scenery, world-class accommodations and dining, and enticing wineries at every
twist and turn. So whenever we want the perfect combination of a great ride and
a romantic getaway, my companion and I look no further than our own Californian
backyard.
Dipping and curving along the verdant foothills, the Silverado
Trail is about an hour and a half north of San Francisco and where we begin our
journey. At the very beginning of the Trail, stop off at the Napa River
Ecological Reserve, a rare and little-known public access point to the river.
The 73-acre riparian habitat transports visitors back 150 years to a time when
the region was virtually untouched. Wild rose, common snowberry, Santa Barbara
sedge, and blackberries compose the under story. Looming overhead, twisting
grapevines wrap sinuously around the larger trees and provide romantic shade.
Taking a light hike along the accompanying trail allows a unique peek at the
reserve’s rare and quiet beauty before returning to the road.
Just off
of 29 is scenic Trinity Road, Oakville Grade. This short but challenging stretch
requires above average riding skills, and if the night before you have been
partaking of the fruits of the vine, save this trip for another morning. The
road is narrow with loose gravel in some areas and hairpin turns lurking
unsuspected in corners. A clear head will pay off in spades: Douglas fir,
majestic pine, and many other varieties of evergreen form a natural canopy over
a majority of the ride. There is virtually no shoulder, so use caution when
stopping to take in the many picture-perfect vistas.
After the series
of meandering turns on Oakville Grade, it’s time to stop off for a little
luxury. No better place than the charming town of Yountville, population 3,000.
Named for George Yount, a trapper from North Carolina who planted the region’s
first grapes in the mid-1800s, Yountville is a tiny and tony town that plays
host to myriad options for fine and casual dining. Because Thomas Keller’s
legendary French Laundry requires coat-and-tie for gentlemen—not to mention
reservations months in advance—try the nearby Montmartre-inspired Bistro Jeanty,
more suited to the spontaneous traveler.
Located on Washington Street,
the town’s one and only main stretch, Bistro Jeanty welcomes the come-as-you-are
diner and provides an exceptional menu of fine French cuisine. The atmosphere is
decidedly eclectic and warm, the staff friendly and attractive. Naturally the
wine list is resplendent with Napa gems, some vintages on the verge on
extinction. Ask for the Green Truck Pinot Noir. Though bearing a pedestrian
sobriquet—it is named for the vintage ’66 Ford in which it is delivered—the rare
pinot is among the best in the region. And save room for dessert and coffee. The
tarte au citron, a lemon meringue tart with orange sauce, is the tastiest treat
this side of Paris.
 Photograph by Kevin Wing. (Click image to enlarge)
Fall into Luxury’s Lap
Just across the street is the Tuscan-flavored
Villagio Inn and Spa, an excellent rest stop after sampling—or overindulging
in—the local wares. A series of waterways create a natural buffer from noise
generated on the highway. Luxurious rooms feature private balconies, fireplaces,
and large sunken Jacuzzi tubs. The spa at Villagio integrates homegrown elements
of the wine region: Seasonal plant and flower essences, grape seeds,
mineral-rich clays and local herbs are hand-blended to create a personal
treatment experience. The river stone massage will melt away any road fatigue
and can be performed at the spa or in-room. You will be rested and ready for
tomorrow’s ride.
We now return to the Silverado Trail, easily accessed from
any of Yountville’s side streets east of Washington. Riding northward, the
valley yields to the magnificence of local geography. Our ultimate destination
is Calistoga, the jewel crowning Napa Valley’s northern border. Nestled in a
narrow valley between lofty peaks of the Coast Range that rise 1,500 to 2,000
feet on both sides, this stretch of the Trail is dotted with rows and rows of
vineyards and wineries, each tucked discreetly away from the road.
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