Riding the Silverado Trail

Winding through napa Valley’s Silverado Trail—rows of magnificent vineyards on one side, majestic mountains on the other—it is hard to imagine that thievery, throat slitting and treachery were commonplace along the now-serene stretch. Before Napa’s winemaking bonanza, notorious highway bandits such as Black Bart harassed stagecoaches up and down the Trail, robbing them of their payrolls and the day’s claim. Vintners had not yet realized the benefits of an 1852 storm that flooded the valley’s main thoroughfare and bestowed a rich, fertile soil that would eventually turn out what some argue is the finest wine in the United States, even in the world. The stretch was narrow and craggy and not easily passed. Until motorized buses took over in 1910, you took your life into your own hands if you traveled the Trail; it was too dangerous.

Photograph by Kevin Wing. (Click image to enlarge)

Today, parallel roads, the Trail and Highway 29, run the length of the Valley’s 30 miles from the city of Napa in the south to Calistoga in the north. Numerous roads crisscross the valley between the two at regular intervals, making it easy to get around and difficult to get lost. They reveal breathtaking scenery, world-class accommodations and dining, and enticing wineries at every twist and turn. So whenever we want the perfect combination of a great ride and a romantic getaway, my companion and I look no further than our own Californian backyard.

Dipping and curving along the verdant foothills, the Silverado Trail is about an hour and a half north of San Francisco and where we begin our journey. At the very beginning of the Trail, stop off at the Napa River Ecological Reserve, a rare and little-known public access point to the river. The 73-acre riparian habitat transports visitors back 150 years to a time when the region was virtually untouched. Wild rose, common snowberry, Santa Barbara sedge, and blackberries compose the under story. Looming overhead, twisting grapevines wrap sinuously around the larger trees and provide romantic shade. Taking a light hike along the accompanying trail allows a unique peek at the reserve’s rare and quiet beauty before returning to the road.

Just off of 29 is scenic Trinity Road, Oakville Grade. This short but challenging stretch requires above average riding skills, and if the night before you have been partaking of the fruits of the vine, save this trip for another morning. The road is narrow with loose gravel in some areas and hairpin turns lurking unsuspected in corners. A clear head will pay off in spades: Douglas fir, majestic pine, and many other varieties of evergreen form a natural canopy over a majority of the ride. There is virtually no shoulder, so use caution when stopping to take in the many picture-perfect vistas.

After the series of meandering turns on Oakville Grade, it’s time to stop off for a little luxury. No better place than the charming town of Yountville, population 3,000. Named for George Yount, a trapper from North Carolina who planted the region’s first grapes in the mid-1800s, Yountville is a tiny and tony town that plays host to myriad options for fine and casual dining. Because Thomas Keller’s legendary French Laundry requires coat-and-tie for gentlemen—not to mention reservations months in advance—try the nearby Montmartre-inspired Bistro Jeanty, more suited to the spontaneous traveler.

Located on Washington Street, the town’s one and only main stretch, Bistro Jeanty welcomes the come-as-you-are diner and provides an exceptional menu of fine French cuisine. The atmosphere is decidedly eclectic and warm, the staff friendly and attractive. Naturally the wine list is resplendent with Napa gems, some vintages on the verge on extinction. Ask for the Green Truck Pinot Noir. Though bearing a pedestrian sobriquet—it is named for the vintage ’66 Ford in which it is delivered—the rare pinot is among the best in the region. And save room for dessert and coffee. The tarte au citron, a lemon meringue tart with orange sauce, is the tastiest treat this side of Paris.

Photograph by Kevin Wing. (Click image to enlarge)

Fall into Luxury’s Lap
Just across the street is the Tuscan-flavored Villagio Inn and Spa, an excellent rest stop after sampling—or overindulging in—the local wares. A series of waterways create a natural buffer from noise generated on the highway. Luxurious rooms feature private balconies, fireplaces, and large sunken Jacuzzi tubs. The spa at Villagio integrates homegrown elements of the wine region: Seasonal plant and flower essences, grape seeds, mineral-rich clays and local herbs are hand-blended to create a personal treatment experience. The river stone massage will melt away any road fatigue and can be performed at the spa or in-room. You will be rested and ready for tomorrow’s ride.

We now return to the Silverado Trail, easily accessed from any of Yountville’s side streets east of Washington. Riding northward, the valley yields to the magnificence of local geography. Our ultimate destination is Calistoga, the jewel crowning Napa Valley’s northern border. Nestled in a narrow valley between lofty peaks of the Coast Range that rise 1,500 to 2,000 feet on both sides, this stretch of the Trail is dotted with rows and rows of vineyards and wineries, each tucked discreetly away from the road.

In 1859 entrepreneur Samuel Brannan planned the town of Calistoga around numerous hot springs in an attempt to attract well-heeled San Franciscans. According to legend, when he introduced his new “Saratoga of California,” he drunkenly muddled his speech saying it was the “Calistoga of Sarifornia.” No matter how you say it, Calistoga means luxury to this day. Visitors still bathe in the hot springs, take hot mud baths, and explore the upper valley’s lavish wineries.

The pool at Calistoga Ranch offers weary riders a serene backdrop for relaxation. (Click image to enlarge)

The Calistoga Ranch and the Frank Family Vineyard top the must-see list. The luxury hotel operator Auberge Resorts built the Ranch about two years ago, hiding it in a private canyon just south of Calistoga proper. It is the perfect destination for those seeking complete privacy and ultimate relaxation. Don’t be surprised if days pass before you venture off the Ranch. The resort is located on a completely secluded and secured 157-acre site marked by ancient oaks, magnificent hills, a stream, and a private lake. It encompasses 47 guest lodges and 27 owner lodges, the private Lakehouse Restaurant, a wine cave, bocce ball courts, a pool overlooking the resort’s private vineyard, and the Bathhouse, where guests can spoil themselves with spa treatments and enjoy the region’s healing mineral waters. One-tenth shares in owner lodges start at $395,000, and one-fifth shares start at $695,000.

The tasteful and unassuming cedar-shingled guest lodges are bungalows connected by decks, trellised walkways, and expansive outdoor living areas, all within a completely natural setting. Each bungalow features an outdoor bath garden where guests can relax and shower under the stars. The folks at Calistoga have made sure that guests will want for nothing. Deluxe touches include down duvets, Frette linens, Calistoga Ranch’s own line of bay laurel and eucalyptus scented body products, entertainment centers with DVD and CD players, wireless high-speed Internet access, and the thoughtful turndown amenity of massage oil that you’ll need after a day in the saddle. Some lodges even have private hot tubs.

The resort’s wine cave. (Click image to enlarge)

The Frank Family Vineyard, just down Larkmeade Lane and a stone’s throw from the Ranch, is an impressive structure considered the epitome of California’s wine country of yesteryear. Originally built as the Larkmead Winery in 1884, the building was refinished with native sandstone from the nearby hills in 1906 and still stands today. The structure is on the National Register of Historical Places and also listed as a Point of Historical Interest for California. Calistoga Ranch guests receive noticeably special treatment, and all visitors are encouraged to tour the building, with its high-stacked barrels, and sample the wines in the separate tasting area. Sit under the vineyard’s giant oak trees, relax and enjoy spectacular vineyard views. The wines are produced in small quantities and currently sold only at the winery and a handful of select restaurants and wine shops. Plan on stocking up, as they will ship most anywhere.

Off the Beaten Path
Just above Calistoga, Highway 29 rejoins the trail as it meanders through vineyards at the mountain base and then suddenly spirals northward above Jericho Canyon. Climbing into the mountains, the lanes of 29 slim as they begin to snake through beautiful oak thickets and past long green grass blowing in the breeze. Five miles up it reaches a saddle east of 4,344-foot Mount St. Helena and Robert Louis Stevenson State Park. The 3,200-acre park, mostly wilderness, is draped over the chaparral, oak, and pine-covered slopes of Mount St. Helena. The peak is one of the highest and looms over the adjacent countryside providing fantastic views.

For an even better one, pull over atop Mount St. Helena’s eastern shoulder. Here sits the ruins of the Toll House on the old Calistoga-Lakeport road that Highway 29 now follows. A winding trail rambles west to a fire road and leads four miles to the mountain’s summit, some 4,000 feet above the Napa Valley. The view is amazing with the Pacific Ocean glimmering to the west; the peaks of Mount Diablo rise in the southeast; and to the north the snowcapped summits of Mount Shasta and Lassen Peak peek above the horizon.

Back on the road the drive drops steeply northward and follows St. Helena Creek. It then meets with California Highway 175, a quiet highway that runs through forest and past small ranches with pastures of livestock. Five miles down, the road begins climbing through a forest of gray pine and oak and then peaks at 2,600-foot Whispering Pines, a sheltered area set amid towering sugar pines. The highway then twists northwestward to Boggs Mountain State Forest. As the road drops, it follows the expansive valley of Cole Creek.

Eighteen miles later, Highway 175 rejoins Highway 29 and runs west around Mount Konocti to Kelseyville, passing apple orchards and more lush vineyards. Turn south on Highway 175 where California 29 continues north into Lakeport. The scenery along this run is simply stunning. The stretch corkscrews up steep slopes and deep canyons to the forested crest of the Mayacamas Mountains before dropping steeply down to Hopland and the Russian River. Dense forest and thick chaparral line the twisting roadway; marvelous views of Clear Lake and the surrounding mountains are revealed at each pullout. You will encounter little traffic on this lonely road section. The drive ends on U.S. 101 where trekkers can return south to the foggy San Francisco Bay.

Destinations

Frank Family Vineyards | www.frankfamilyvineyards.com | 800.574.9463
Green Truck Cellars | www.greentruckcellars.com | 707.738.2376. (by appointment only)
Bistro Jeanty | www.bistrojeanty.com | 707.944.0103 | 6510 Washington Street, Yountville, CA 94599
Villagio Inn and Spa | www.villagio.com | 707.977.8877 | 6481 Washington Street, Yountville, CA 94599
Calistoga Ranch | www.calistogaranch.com | 580 Lommel Road, Calistoga, CA 94515 | 800.942.4220