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Mountain Men & Curve Cowboys
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Wyoming, The Big Sky
Don Bouchard
05/01/2006
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Photography by Don Bouchard
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All world-class destinations seem to have a single view that takes on iconic
status, visually representing the entirety of a vast and wonderful
place—Yosemite’s Half Dome, Monument Valley’s Mitten Buttes, the Statue of
Liberty, the Eiffel Tower. Here, the view at Schwabacher’s Landing on the
backwaters of the Snake River—with the majesty of the mountains fully exposed
and perfectly mirrored in the still waters of the beaver ponds—takes on this
status.
 Lewis Falls, Wyo. (Click image to enlarge)
Wonderfully alone, I set up my comfy camp chair, mounted the camera
on the tripod, and settled in for a while; ’til dawn, it turned out. As the
temperatures quickly dropped, I kept adding clothes from the riding duffel. I
smoked a fabulous 10-year-old Bolivar Belicoso Fino and sipped a bottle of 1997
Tulocay Cabernet in my plastic stemware. Dozens of time-exposure photographs
were captured in the ever-changing light of night with the moon just past full
as I snuggly savored the experience, serenaded by a pack of coyotes that hunted
the very immediate vicinity all night long. With the coming of dawn, the phalanx
of photographers returned to catch that postcard Schwabacher Landing sunrise
shot. The last photographer out the night before was the first to arrive that
morning. “Didn’t I see you riding in right at dark last night?” he asked. “Yes,
indeed,” I told him. “You might’ve caught both sunset and sunrise from here, but
you missed the best part in between.” I’m fairly certain he is still trying to
understand—but then—he travels to places like this in a four-wheeled cage.
Activities back at the lodge were picking up with the arrival of the bulk of
the CCR group. I pulled my bug-spattered Harley into a slot, mixing it in among
30 fully detailed, multicolored Beemers. Lovely rides, the BMWs are—sleek,
stylish, sexy in a sophisticated way. The riders were just like the bikes they
rode—sleek, stylish, and sexy, and fully decked-out in high-tech riding suits
and colorfully coordinated full face helmets. My black leathers, chaps, and WWI
flying cap contrasted with their apparel as sharply as my bike did, but the
welcoming smiles, handshakes, and bike talk instantly made me feel like one of
the tribe just arriving at Rendezvous. The vendors were assembled, showing off
the latest in accessories and clothing. Integrated mapping GPS, radar detectors,
highway hi-fi, and inter- and intra-bike communication systems were in great
supply. Rider education, technology, safety and technique classes, and travel
presentations started early, and by 10 am the lodge was mostly empty.
These
Curve Cowboys don’t burn daylight sitting around—they ride, ride well, and push
the envelope. I wondered as I entered the National Park and noticed the signs
for the park-wide 45 mph speed limit, how these riders would like it. I’m pretty
comfortable lazily cruising the curves in a laid back riding position, listening
to the rumbling syncopation of the throaty V-twin and digging the mix broadcast
to my H-D’s stereo from the personal greatest hits playlist on my iPod. I
wondered how these high-octane Curve Cowboys, astride their wind tunnel–tuned
steeds, would adjust. Federal speeding tickets are neither inexpensive nor easy
to fight. (Click images to enlarge)
 Having Grand Teton and Yellowstone, two of our most spacious and
spectacular National Parks, nestle right up to each other, makes for wonderful
riding. A handful of Harley buddies had ridden in from Arizona, California, and
Minnesota, so it was a healthy mix of new friends, old friends, Beemers, and
Harleys that headed out on that first morning ride. A single, highlight-only
tour of the two parks from the lodge through Yellowstone takes a full day with
plenty of saddle time. Spaced out along the enjoyable new roadways are the
scenic sights that have justifiably become so well known—Jackson Lake, Lewis
Falls, Yellowstone Lake, Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, Yellowstone Falls,
Mammoth Hot Springs, Fountain Paint Pots, and, most famously, Old Faithful. The
weather was clear, cool, and everything exceeded expectations. Buffalo, moose,
elk, deer, wolves, coyotes, and eagles showed up for us, just on this first day.
Back on the road, the numerous and recently added slow-traffic pullouts and
passing zones kept the caravans of motorhomes and RVs mostly manageable.
Excepting the low speed limits, this is a rewarding, motorcycle-friendly region
to ride. (Click image to enlarge)
Top: Luxury on tour. Bottom: BMW meets H-D. (Click images to enlarge)
I repeatedly looked at the map, adding up the miles separating me
from Glacier National Park and Going to the Sun Highway—just 700 miles away, and
all of it world class riding. It was simply too much temptation, and I am a firm
practitioner of surrendering to temptation rather than fighting it. The ride up
through the Tetons, Yellowstone, into Montana, along the shores of Flathead
Lake, and up to Glacier NP was fantastic. The weather continued to be clear and
cool and the gods of highway construction seemed to bless my journey. Going to
the Sun Highway is unquestionably one of the best rides on this big blue planet.
Precariously hung like a garland on a Christmas tree, the 52-mile-long road
ribbons, twists, and clings to the steep cliffs through arches and tunnels up to
Logan pass. The descent offers countless breathtaking views of glacier-carved
valleys, tall veiled waterfalls, and crystal clear mountain lakes—all
illuminated by striking high altitude mountain light. It was the 36-hour,
1400-mile day trip of a lifetime.
Back at the lodge with the CCR gang was a
real experience, but don’t let my “Rendezvous in the wilderness” metaphor give
you the wrong idea. CCR is like no bike rally you have ever seen. It is a first
class hotel, food, and wine experience from start to finish. CCR is a
predictably upscale group. Proudly displayed on the windscreen of a basalt gray
LT was a Rolls-Royce Owners’ Group decal, though I expect that Beemers of the
four-wheeled variety might make a more familiar second vehicle for many of these
riders. Still, the focus was the riding. Groups would blast out with first light
and wander in all directions. Trip distances ranged from the short tens to over
900 miles covered by one couple riding two-up on their scenic day trip—and they
didn’t cheat with an overnight like I did.
 The author’s Harley enjoys a moment of solitude. (Click image to enlarge)
The camaraderie of motorcycling
is a wonderful thing. At the final CCR banquet, the real spirit of the event was
clear. “Focus on Success”, a local program for at-risk middle-school kids, had
its annual budget doubled by the donation from CCR. Real friendships were forged
and renewed, and park rangers pitched in by bestowing federal performance awards
on (surprisingly) few CCR riders for their efforts in testing both the roadways
and the rangers’ amused toleration. The tribe had gathered once again for
Rendezvous and done themselves proud.The next CCR will be at Chateau Elan Winery
and Resort in Braselton, Ga., a premier four-star luxury hotel, spa, and golf
resort.
Just a day back home in the real world, washing bugs and road grime
off the bike, I was reminded of Bud Guthrie’s words in The Big Sky, words that
resonate so deeply:“This was the way to live, free and easy, with time all a
man’s own and none to say no to him. A body got so’s he felt everything was kin
to him, the earth and sky and buffalo and beaver and the yellow moon at night.
It was better than being walled in by a house, better than breathing spoiled air
and feeling caged like a varmint.”
Pack up the bike, it’s time for a
ride.
www.curvecowboyreunion.com
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