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/ Home / Travel & Touring /
A Writers Tour
Big Sur
Jeff Buchanan
05/01/2006
Photography by Don Williams
Photography by Don Williams

Carmel and Big Sur figured strongly in the passionate, and sometimes violent, poetry of Jeffers. Early in his career, his poetry was often changed by printers who thought the writer had made errors with his punctuation, not realizing that the poet was following his own dramatic rhythm which went against the grammatical conventions of the time.

Like Miller, Jeffers was viewed by the government as a subversive—Miller, because of his audacious and unconventional writing, and Jeffers, simply because his strong convictions against war surfaced time and again in his work. Also, like Miller, Jeffers invoked sex in his writings, using the themes of rape, incest, and adultery to drive home his strong beliefs that modern man was sliding into a maniacal self-centeredness.

Jeffers’ house and the adjoining tower both are easily recognized by their storybook appearance. Given the density of homes in the area today, it is hard to imagine that when Jeffers began work on his beloved Tor House, Carmel Point was virtually uninhabited, grazing horses and cows making up the bulk of the bluff neighborhood. Jeffers’ daily routine was a healthy balance between intellectual study and physical labor. Mornings were spent writing, afternoons were devoted to building.

Tor House is filled with a kind of mystical timelessness and warmth, echoing with whispers of the many souls that passed through the Jefferses’ lives. Sinclair Lewis, Charles Lindbergh, Martha Graham, and Charlie Chaplin visited, to name just a few, each leaving behind a friendly piece of spirit.

Sadly, it was time for us to return home. As we headed south, retracing our path through Big Sur and past the Ventana Inn, I was taken back to 1969, when Easy Rider hit America, rattling the establishment with its counterculture theme on its way to iconic status. I was all of 12 years old. Although the film contains a plethora of memorable scenes, oddly enough, the most significant one for me was near the beginning, just after Peter Fonda and Dennis Hopper had taken possession of their gleaming Harley-Davidsons. Before embarking on the journey across America, Fonda takes off his watch and, quite poignantly, tosses it into the dirt. That still stands as my earliest recollection, my initial grasp of interpreting cinematic symbolism, and forever imbued the idea of motorcycles with freedom. How appropriate to be in the timelessness of Big Sur.

Honda Motorcycles | powersports.honda.com
Triumph Motorcycles www.triumph.co.uk/usa
Henry Miller Memorial Library www.henrymiller.org | 831.667.2574
Robinson Jeffers Tor House Foundation | www.torhouse.org | 831.624.1813
Ventana Inn & Spa, Cielo Restaurant | www.ventanainn.com | 831.667.2331

 
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