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A Grand Escape
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Edelweiss Tour
Jeff Buchanan
03/01/2006
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Photography By Martin Bucher + Jeff Buchanan
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The first rule of an Edelweiss tour is reassuringly simple: You are never
lost. “And in our case,” the tour guide added just prior to departing Barcelona,
“as long as you don’t cross a border, you know you’re somewhere in Spain.” He
had a point. And with that calming rationale wisely imparted to assuage any
angst we intrepid adventurers might have, armed with an array of detailed maps,
we were let loose upon Spain.
 We were 15 strong—one guide and seven
couples astride eight BMWs. For the moment, as we threaded our way through the
morning streets of Barcelona, we were temporary strangers on the brink of
friendships that would be forged during the two-week, 1,700-mile journey ahead.
As we broke free of the city, we journeyed inland. We were immediately
introduced to the uncluttered, twisting roads that would carry us through the
heart of the Pyrenees mountain range that straddles the French border from the
Mediterranean all the way to the Atlantic. Ascending into the mountains, the
guide’s words continued to resonate through my thoughts, nurturing the
realization that we had all slipped from our various tethers and were now wholly
committed to being “somewhere in Spain.” (Click image to enlarge)
After several weeks of
anticipation—evenings spent poring over the road maps and pertinent materials
Edelweiss had sent us in advance of our trip—my lady and I were embarking on one
of the company’s most exclusive offerings, the Royal Spanish Castle Tour. As the
name implies, the tour’s theme is travel through some of Spain’s history in a
rolling tapestry of medieval villages, Gothic cathedrals, and ancient castles,
laced together by a variety of beautiful, motorcycle-friendly roads that are,
for the most part, delightfully devoid of automobiles and traffic.
 Picturesque, winding roads like these straddle the Pyrennees from the
Mediterranean Sea to the Atlantic Ocean and attract all brands of bikes. (Click image to enlarge)
Over the
ensuing two weeks, we would eat our way from Barcelona to the Atlantic coast
through assorted paellas, salads, meat dishes, pastries, soups, sandwiches,
tapas and cheeses. And in the evenings, after the motorcycles were parked,
plenty of beer and wine helped to loosen stories and laughter from our traveling
companions. The circuitous route would take us into the Pyrenees to Seo de
Urgel, the mountain village of Arties, through the famous streets of Pamplona,
and on to Argomaniz, finally delivering us into the historical Atlantic coastal
city of Santillana del Mar. The return trip would take us through Rioja, the
beautiful city of Zaragoza, with its massive cathedral, and on to the restored
castle of Cardona before eventually returning us several thousand kilometers—and
many memories—later, back to Barcelona.
 Photograph by Amber Watson. (Click image to enlarge)
There is a wonderful irresponsibility
to going on an organized tour where every detail has been arranged—the route,
the restaurants, the hotels, and the motorcycles. It is the essence of what a
vacation should be: free of stress and hassles. Even the afternoon coffee
stops—an essential Spanish routine—are scouted in advance. It didn’t take long
for us to acquire a taste for that midday cortado (basically a double espresso
with a dash of warm milk) to give us a caffeine jolt to get us through the day’s
remaining miles. At one mountain village, the local bar had a signature blend
for this creation, adding a touch of sugar and chocolate, just the thing when
waiting out the sometimes temperamental weather. It was the bartender,
indicating the clearing skies as he poured his prized creation, who told me an
old saying that rang true: “If you don’t like the weather in Spain, just wait 10
minutes.”
Travelling through the postcards of Spain’s history. (Click images to enlarge)
Accommodations on the Royal tours are predominantly
paradors—monasteries that have been converted to luxury hotels with modern
amenities, yet retaining their old-world charm. There was even a sleepover in a
restored castle. The Royal tours have a romantic flair that makes them perfect
for couples.
The scout, forever invisibly moving ahead of the tour in the
support vehicle, arrives at the evening’s hotel ahead of the group and gets
everyone checked in. All you need to do is pick up your key and head to your
room, where your bags will be waiting for you. These nice touches become a
welcome alternative to scrounging around in an unfamiliar town late at night
trying to find decent lodging and a satisfying meal. Also, by utilizing the
chase vehicle to carry luggage, riders and passengers are free of the additional
weight and hassle of packing and unpacking bikes each day. This is one
motorcycle trip on which you can bring more clothes than fit in your
saddlebags.
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