For many of us, the traditional two-week summer vacation, like our
first minibike, is a fond and distant memory. Reluctance to get away from the
office, escalating highway traffic, and increasingly nightmarish air travel are
among the numerous reasons we find ourselves living in post-vacation America. As
a result, busy couples face the vexing issue of how to spend their ever
dwindling down time.
Consider this scenario: One of you yearns to peel off a few
hundred miles of open road on the new bagger that has accumulated a blanket of
dust in the heated garage all winter, while the other half’s itch can only be
scratched by a seaweed body scrub and access to a world-class shopping district.
Photograph by Tony Aguirre. (Click image to enlarge)
In an effort to ensure domestic tranquility, we recently undertook
the harrowing assignment of furloughing 150 miles south of Los Angeles to
explore the resorts, restaurants and backroads of North San Diego County on a
pair of classically styled touring bikes, the Moto Guzzi California Vintage and
Harley-Davidson Road King Classic, while clocking a few spa hours along the way.
Two Wheels
South
Getting an early morning start to meet Holly and our dog Hank
in Rancho Santa Fe, I shuffled the Moto Guzzi through downtown L.A.’s rush hour
swarm. As someone who rarely attempts the Angelino workday death-march on two
wheels, I quickly developed an appreciation for the weighty Italian’s
exceptionally virile Brembos and rubber knee guards. While not an agile crowd
negotiator, the California Vintage is reassuringly stable and corners well.
In the 1970s, the look-alike Moto Guzzi Ambassador was a
favorite mount of the LAPD. Apparently, its ominous black and white heritage
still resonates. I soon found my path cleared by nervous drivers and was able to
roll on the 1,064 cc V-Twin’s bristling mid-range torque and clattering charm
all the way to California’s legendary Highway 1.
Southbound and sitting tall in the Guzzi’s nearly 31-inch
saddle, the miles between beach towns unraveled on sandblown blacktop. The
onshore blasts kept my seaward glances to a minimum, but I managed to glimpse a
pair of dolphins gently arcing beyond the breakers near Huntington Beach. If
that doesn’t make you roll off the throttle and enjoy the ride, you might as
well fly.
Photograph by Tony Aguirre. (Click image to enlarge)
A lengthy diversion onto I-5 hurled me through the seaside
Marine Corps Base Camp Pendleton security gauntlet, allowing the Guzzi a welcome
opportunity to open up. At lower revs, the 90-degree Breva-based mill produces
more of a muted shudder than traditional V-Twin pulse, but dropping into fifth
with the heel/toe shifter and winding up over 3000 rpm settles the transverse
Vee into a smooth, powerful gallop, aided by the Magneti Marelli phased
sequential fuel injectors. At impolite speeds, the strong coastal winds made for
some unavoidable helmet buffeting over the midsize windscreen, but I was soon on
the Coast Highway, gliding through Oceanside, where nearly every intersection
rumbled with the snarl of aftermarket pipes.
Further south, funky beach towns such as Leucadia and
Cardiff-by-the-Sea drifted by, then I hit the left turn that took me up into the
languid hills of Rancho Santa Fe and through the gates of our first resort. I
found our casita and leaned the Moto Guzzi on its lanky kickstand. My arrival
was well timed. The big orange sun was dropping through the towering palms like
a hot stone, quickshifting me into martini and massage mode.
Elegant
Seclusion
When choosing a resort, Mike and I agree hands down on what we require: an
incomparable spa, privacy, fine linens, superior concierge service and a
welcoming pet policy. The secluded and verdant Rancho Valencia Spa and Resort
nestled in the coastal foothills not only fulfilled our desires, but assured
easy access to great rides for Mike as well as plenty of girlie activities for
me—not to mention great walks for Hank, our furry-faced family member.

Rancho Valencia is comprised of 49 luxury casitas, many
overlooking the 18 tennis courts, surrounded by lush foliage and an orange grove
that only Southern California can boast. The ultra-comfortable king-sized bed,
cozy fireplace, flat-screen TV, wet bar, and secluded terrace with a four-person
Jacuzzi may well keep you pajama-clad for the length of your stay. Certainly,
the oversized bathroom’s billowing Mr. Steam-equipped shower claimed much of
Mike’s post-ride evening. Had it not been for the opulent spa and inviting
restaurant steps from our casita, there was a chance that room service might be
our only contact with the outside world.
HIS RIDING STYLE
Helmet: Shoei RJ Platinum R; Eyewear: Harley-Davidson Profile Jacket: Schott One Star Perfecto; Gloves: Star Basic Leather Pants: Levi Strauss Signature; Boots: Wesco Boss
HER RIDING STYLE
Helmet: Scorpion Solid 700; Jacket: Lost World Easy Ryder Gloves: Shift Dynasty; Pants: Lucky Brand Jeans Easy Rider; Boots: Taryn Rose Quincy Riding Boots.
Photograph by Tony Aguirre. (Click image to enlarge)
The next morning, after relaxing over breakfast on our terrace
in Frette bathrobes, venturing outside proved rewarding. Strolling around the
fragrant and flourishing grounds, we discovered hidden garden nooks with quaint
benches while Hank uncovered errant tennis balls. After our stroll I enjoyed a
Vichy treatment, a full body hydrotherapy shower and body scrub followed by a
90-minute massage, while Mike explored backroads near the resort. Later, we
reconvened fireside for a champagne recap. Mike was soon whisked away to a
treatment room for some post-ride untangling, while I returned to the room to
dress for dinner. Our concierge had booked us a table at perhaps North County’s
finest restaurant, Market, in nearby Del Mar.
Photograph by Gary Payne. (Click image to enlarge)
At the warm hued, mid-century-styled bistro, we were treated to
chef Carl Schroeder’s tasting menu, which included a delicious avocado soup with
goat cheese, potato cakes with delicate, crispy salmon, and impossibly tender
cabernet braised beef ribs with whipped sweet onion potatoes and glazed
cipollini onions. Each morning, Schroeder selects his produce from nearby Chino
Farms and designs his menu around the best of the day’s yield. The result is a
dining experience bursting with rich, local flavors and unique combinations.
Dessert is a thoughtful chocolate tasting of soufflé tart, a tiny bittersweet
mint shake and a lovely French macaroon.
Somewhere between contentment and delirium, we returned to the
Ranch
for one final night and a reluctant farewell, although not before phoning
our attorney to inquire about squatter’s rights.
Fresh Horses, and
Pie
After two breezy days spent patrolling the coast on the Moto
Guzzi, I hankered for some homegrown Milwaukee growl and crisp mountain air.
While Holly spent the afternoon by the pool and took care of our checkout, I
swapped the retro-Carabinieri mount for a Harley-Davidson Road King Classic and
beat it eastward towards the piney gold rush town of Julian, taking Highway 67,
which transitions into Highway 78 just beyond the rugged low-mountain town of
Ramona.
Photograph by Tony Aguirre. (Click image to enlarge)
The classically chromed Road King ate up the rolling
chaparral’s gentle curves with surprising athleticism. Traffic was light for a
state highway, making the uphill romp all the more gratifying. Leaning the
whitewalls over as the scrub whisked by had me gleefully gulping bugs for miles.
The Twin-Cam 96 mustered plenty of torquey midrange to propel the 760-pounder up
the through the sweepers toward Santa Ysabel, where rock- and tree-lined canyon
curves give way to expansive vistas of Oak dotted hills and undulating
valleys.
The old mining town of Julian is a celebrated destination for
motorcyclists. Known more today for its ambrosial apple crop and the Harleys
lining Main Street than for its Gold Rush heritage, Julian is an ideally rustic
pit stop to divide a day of mountain touring—a place where cowboy hats outnumber
ball caps, and even the grocery store looks like a saloon.
While there is no shortage of homey cafes to refuel on heaping
plates of comfort food and linger over endless refills of coffee, Julian is a
pie town—apple pie town to be specific. The ruddy log cabin exterior of Mom’s
Pie House lures the hungry from either end of Main Street to watch the bakers
perform their magic in the big front windows. It is a particularly cruel tactic
when combined with the aroma of the freshly de-ovened discs drifting through the
doorway. No self-respecting gourmand stands a chance.
Fed and fueled, I continued my loop down out of Julian on
Highway 79. Providing more frequent and compact bends than the 78, the road
south winds through twisted oaks, a brook-lined pine forest and arcs around
shimmering Lake Cuyamaca. The descent proved an exacting test of the Road King’s
handling characteristics and four-piston front brakes. A more adept mountaineer
than the Moto Guzzi, the Road King is remarkably at ease with the tighter
confines at speed. The comfortable 27-inch seat height makes for a more embedded
riding position, which complements the bike’s agility.
Photograph by Cordero Studios/ www.corderostudios.com (Click image to enlarge)
Stopping just past Descanso, where Highway 79 connects with
Interstate 8, I came across a bleak indicator of time and place. Several plastic
zip ties used by the Border Patrol to detain suspected illegal immigrants lay
slashed and scattered by the side of the road. Leaving that dispiriting bit of
reality behind, I wound the Road King up, dropped it into 6th and rumbled west
to meet Holly and Hank at our next destination.
Coastal
Classic
Situated atop La Jolla Cove, La Valencia Hotel has been the place to see and
be seen since opening in 1926. Charlie Chaplin, Greta Garbo and Groucho Marx
were among Hollywood’s golden age luminaries who relied on the hotel’s
discretion, fine service and romantic lobby to create the perfect escape. La
Valencia’s present day decor is an eclectic mélange of antiques—many donated by
generous patrons over the years. It is an atmosphere that fits our lifestyle
like a leather glove.
Our spacious corner suite at La Valencia included an elegant
bar stocked with top shelf adult beverages and our own full service butler who
offered to walk Hank after mixing us a chilled martini. While they took the
evening air, we sipped our way through the suite’s numerous amenities: a full
kitchen, dining and living areas, indoor/outdoor fireplace, an ocean-view
terrace, separate bedroom, and, to Mike’s endless delight, a Mr. Steam. After a
nightcap on the balcony, we drifted off to sleep as breakers battered the nearby
cliffs.
Photograph by Cordero Studios/ www.corderostudios.com (Click image to enlarge)
The next morning, I discovered superb galleries and shopping
just a stone’s throw from the hotel. Since we were celebrating an anniversary,
it was my mission to find a special gift for Mike. Two shops caught my eye on a
stroll with Hank—My Own Space, a unique furnishings and gift store and Neroli
Lingerie purveyors of fine undergarments. A rare Ball Chair by Eero Aarnio will
be delivered when we return home, and I discovered a smaller, more intimate gift
at Neroli. Mike had one final surprise of his own that required a sunset
ride over the Coronado Bridge. Located behind Loews Coronado Bay Resort, the
Gondola Company offers private rides through the twinkling canals of the
Coronado Cays. The excursion is made all the more dreamy by chilled champagne
and antipasto compliments of Mistral, the hotel’s Mediterranean-inspired
restaurant. As the sun dipped behind us, Giuseppe the gondolier serenaded us
with a selection of Verdi as we toasted our exceptional good fortune and
fabulous vacation.
Homeward
Bound
After a late checkout, we loaded up the car and I sent Holly
and Hank on their way home with the top down—Hank’s preferred mode of transport.
Figuring to cut my own travel time, I decided to bypass he scenic route and take
the Road King inland up Interstate 5. I may have shaved some time off the
commute, but slogging past reeking industrial plants and dingy card casinos left
me with the feeling I had overvalued the concept of expeditious headway. I
should have been cruising up PCH, glimpsing whale spouts beyond the whitecaps.
Instead, I was in Tustin, stuck behind a monster truck, staring at a decal of a
kid voiding his bladder on a Chevy logo.
While that unfortunate dénouement could not possibly dim the
glow of a perfectly romantic and adventurous weekend, it did make for a helmet
smacking moment of clarity. With my boots planted on the blacktop, I realized
that in my haste I had forgotten the obvious. When you are on a motorcycle, the
road is the destination. It’s a simple maxim, but one that is easily abandoned
these days. No offense to Tustin, but from now on, I’ll be taking the long road
home.
The Gondola Company | www.gondolacompany.com | 619.429.6317
La Valencia Hotel | www.lavalencia.com | 800.451.0772
Mom’s Pie House | www.momspiesjulian.com | 760.765.2472
My Own Space | www.mosmyownspace.com | 858.459.0099
Neroli Lingerie | www.neroli.com | 858.456.9618
Rancho Valencia Resort and Spa | www.ranchovalencia.com |
800.548.3664