I could have sworn I saw Heidi skipping down one of the many long grassy slopes with her grandfather slowly
walking behind her. But, despite the magical views, I had to concentrate on the
road ahead as we wound our way through some of the most breathtaking scenery on
the planet: the Dolomites mountain range in north-eastern Italy. Forming one
section of the Alps, the Dolomites extend from the Adige River in the west to
the Pieve di Cadore valley in the east. Containing more than 40 glaciers, the
mountains themselves were created from carbonate
rock, which gives the Dolomites their spectacular and stark appearance.
Merely the fact that we were riding in Italy—the land of
romance and the renaissance—would have been enough, but every aspect of the trip
worked out just right as well. The countryside is typically European, with
well-surfaced roads, quaint towns laced with beautiful villas and historic
monuments; even a few castles dot the landscape. The Italians are warm and
friendly, with a legendary laid-back attitude and an appreciation of fine food
and wine enjoyed over leisurely meals.
 Photograph by Giovanni Rinaldi. (Click image to enlarge)
Having landed at Marco Polo Airport in Venice, it was an hour’s
drive before we arrived at the Ducati factory in Borgo Panigale. The tour of the
legendary pre-war buildings was fascinating. The museum is a large circular room
with several smaller adjoining themed rooms. Motorcycles from Ducati’s storied
past are beautifully displayed, from the Cucciolo—Ducati’s original
engined-bicycle—through to the latest MotoGP star. There were enough
immaculately restored, and original, motorcycles to stir any Ducatistas blood.
Hailwood’s 1978 TT winner was there, as well as other storied race-bikes, all in
glorious Italian racing red and available for detailed examination. We spent most of the day at Ducati, then headed to the hotel in
Vicenza. Located roughly half way between Venezia and Verona, Vicenza is Italy’s
unofficial jewelry capital. Our host, Paolo Bari, is one of those genial spirits
who seems to know everyone. Established by his grandfather as a bakery in the
Sant’Agostino Valley, Nogarazza—his trattoria and hotel—is the base for his new
motorcycle touring holiday venture: Dynamic Ducati Driving.
 Dynamic Ducati Driving offers a range of
attractions, from picturesque small towns, to the Ducati museum, to challenging
mountain roads. Photograph by Mary Buch. (Click image to enlarge)
We had a choice of dining inside Nogarazza’s main restaurant,
or outside on the covered terrace where the warm evenings and wonderful local
wines can be savored Italian style—slowly. Bari is such a confirmed Ducatista
that he is now producing his own wine: DesmoRosso, a light cabernet/merlot blend
that includes rare carmanere grapes too. But Nogarazza is especially well known
locally for its gourmet food. Typically we’d start with carpaccio, parma ham e
melone, or a salad consisting of roasted beets, warmed goat cheese and walnuts,
and mixed greens tossed with extra virgin olive oil. This would be followed with
some pasta; invariably either a ravioli or spaghetti tossed with a Bolognese
sauce of beef, tomatoes, celery, onion, carrots and garlic. Over a bottle of a
local ’99 Brunello di Montecino, I was first introduced to the house specialty
of salted sea bass. The salt hardens in the oven and is then broken off in
chunks by the waiter at the table, revealing a perfectly cooked and delicately
flavored, light, white fish that is absolutely delicious. For the final dessert
course I fell in love with Nogarazza’s meringue cake. Made with whipped custard,
lots of cream, and delicate meringue, it was the perfect sweet ending to a meal
that always had me muttering basta (enough) by the end of it.
Ducati Dynamic Driving is endorsed by the Ducati factory. Using
Nogarazza as its base of operations, Bari is able to offer a menu of unique,
fully-inclusive experiences which can be ordered à la carte. In addition to the
tour of the Dolomites, a typical week could also include the Ducati Riding
Experience (a track day at Mugello), a visit to Ferrari at Maranello, and a day
trip to the IWC watch factory just over the Swiss border in Schaffhausen, where
you will have the opportunity to assemble your own watch—and then purchase it if
desired. For those wishing for more private accommodations, Bari also owns a
local and exquisitely furnished four bedroom villa, where guests can indulge in
private luxury—fully catered by one of Nogarazza’s chefs.
 Photograph by Mike Quindazzi. (Click image to enlarge)
The following morning, after an elegant breakfast and a cup of
coffee that only the Italians can brew, our group set off. On offer are the
Ducati Monster S2R 1000 or S4R S. The slightly roomier Multistrada 1100 is also
available and, being two-up, Mary and I naturally opted for one; at no point did
we regret our decision.
Vicenza is about 90 minutes from the Dolomites. The local
countryside is lush and green, and tree-lined roads curve up into the local
hills. Leaving Nogarazza we threaded our way towards the Tangenziale Sud di
Treviso motorway. The road is well-paved, like all of the roads we encountered,
and lined with trees and neatly trimmed hedges. Attractive shuttered villas with
longish driveways are nicely separated; the classic Tuscan-style elegance of the
earth-toned buildings blended harmoniously with the landscape.
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