I could have sworn I saw Heidi skipping down one of the many long grassy slopes with her grandfather slowly walking behind her. But, despite the magical views, I had to concentrate on the road ahead as we wound our way through some of the most breathtaking scenery on the planet: the Dolomites mountain range in north-eastern Italy. Forming one section of the Alps, the Dolomites extend from the Adige River in the west to the Pieve di Cadore valley in the east. Containing more than 40 glaciers, the mountains themselves were created from carbonate rock, which gives the Dolomites their spectacular and stark appearance.
Merely the fact that we were riding in Italy—the land of
romance and the renaissance—would have been enough, but every aspect of the trip
worked out just right as well. The countryside is typically European, with
well-surfaced roads, quaint towns laced with beautiful villas and historic
monuments; even a few castles dot the landscape. The Italians are warm and
friendly, with a legendary laid-back attitude and an appreciation of fine food
and wine enjoyed over leisurely meals.; function voidFunc() { } voidFunc();)
Photograph by Giovanni Rinaldi. (Click image to enlarge)
Having landed at Marco Polo Airport in Venice, it was an hour’s
drive before we arrived at the Ducati factory in Borgo Panigale. The tour of the
legendary pre-war buildings was fascinating. The museum is a large circular room
with several smaller adjoining themed rooms. Motorcycles from Ducati’s storied
past are beautifully displayed, from the Cucciolo—Ducati’s original
engined-bicycle—through to the latest MotoGP star. There were enough
immaculately restored, and original, motorcycles to stir any Ducatistas blood.
Hailwood’s 1978 TT winner was there, as well as other storied race-bikes, all in
glorious Italian racing red and available for detailed examination.
We spent most of the day at Ducati, then headed to the hotel in
Vicenza. Located roughly half way between Venezia and Verona, Vicenza is Italy’s
unofficial jewelry capital. Our host, Paolo Bari, is one of those genial spirits
who seems to know everyone. Established by his grandfather as a bakery in the
Sant’Agostino Valley, Nogarazza—his trattoria and hotel—is the base for his new
motorcycle touring holiday venture: Dynamic Ducati Driving.; function voidFunc() { } voidFunc();)
Dynamic Ducati Driving offers a range of
attractions, from picturesque small towns, to the Ducati museum, to challenging
mountain roads. Photograph by Mary Buch. (Click image to enlarge)
We had a choice of dining inside Nogarazza’s main restaurant,
or outside on the covered terrace where the warm evenings and wonderful local
wines can be savored Italian style—slowly. Bari is such a confirmed Ducatista
that he is now producing his own wine: DesmoRosso, a light cabernet/merlot blend
that includes rare carmanere grapes too. But Nogarazza is especially well known
locally for its gourmet food. Typically we’d start with carpaccio, parma ham e
melone, or a salad consisting of roasted beets, warmed goat cheese and walnuts,
and mixed greens tossed with extra virgin olive oil. This would be followed with
some pasta; invariably either a ravioli or spaghetti tossed with a Bolognese
sauce of beef, tomatoes, celery, onion, carrots and garlic. Over a bottle of a
local ’99 Brunello di Montecino, I was first introduced to the house specialty
of salted sea bass. The salt hardens in the oven and is then broken off in
chunks by the waiter at the table, revealing a perfectly cooked and delicately
flavored, light, white fish that is absolutely delicious. For the final dessert
course I fell in love with Nogarazza’s meringue cake. Made with whipped custard,
lots of cream, and delicate meringue, it was the perfect sweet ending to a meal
that always had me muttering basta (enough) by the end of it.
Ducati Dynamic Driving is endorsed by the Ducati factory. Using
Nogarazza as its base of operations, Bari is able to offer a menu of unique,
fully-inclusive experiences which can be ordered à la carte. In addition to the
tour of the Dolomites, a typical week could also include the Ducati Riding
Experience (a track day at Mugello), a visit to Ferrari at Maranello, and a day
trip to the IWC watch factory just over the Swiss border in Schaffhausen, where
you will have the opportunity to assemble your own watch—and then purchase it if
desired. For those wishing for more private accommodations, Bari also owns a
local and exquisitely furnished four bedroom villa, where guests can indulge in
private luxury—fully catered by one of Nogarazza’s chefs.; function voidFunc() { } voidFunc();)
Photograph by Mike Quindazzi. (Click image to enlarge)
The following morning, after an elegant breakfast and a cup of
coffee that only the Italians can brew, our group set off. On offer are the
Ducati Monster S2R 1000 or S4R S. The slightly roomier Multistrada 1100 is also
available and, being two-up, Mary and I naturally opted for one; at no point did
we regret our decision.
Vicenza is about 90 minutes from the Dolomites. The local countryside is lush and green, and tree-lined roads curve up into the local hills. Leaving Nogarazza we threaded our way towards the Tangenziale Sud di Treviso motorway. The road is well-paved, like all of the roads we encountered, and lined with trees and neatly trimmed hedges. Attractive shuttered villas with longish driveways are nicely separated; the classic Tuscan-style elegance of the earth-toned buildings blended harmoniously with the landscape.
The plan was to thread the Passo Campolongo on Localita Passo Tre Croci and head for the ski resort of Cortina d’Ampezzo. With the mountains clearly in sight, the scenery was becoming more dramatic and the air was getting sharper as our altitude increased. Taller, pine-covered hills flanked the roads. Ancient stone walls and numerous waterfalls added to the backdrop. We cleared Feltre and headed toward Santa Giustina; as the curves in the road became faster and more flowing, Davide, our guide, upped the pace a little to around 130 kph, and the Multistrada responded with eagerness.
With clear vision and a dry road, the exhilaration of
sport-touring flooded back to me. There is something incredibly elegant about
being a part of, and watching, a line of sport motorcycles threading their way
through a series of corners. As each one leans into a bend, I find it absolutely
thrilling to watch each bike perfectly emulate its predecessor just a moment
later. There is a balletic rhythm to riding sport; it requires all of your
concentration, but it is immensely gratifying to be a part of the train.
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Photograph by Mary Buch. (Click image to enlarge)The afternoon’s story continued the same progression as earlier. The higher our altitude became, the more dramatic the scenery. Respectfully slowing for the narrow streets in the villages enabled us to glance at the inviting shops and cafes spilling on to the sidewalks. The traffic was fairly light, even in the towns and with only one or two traffic lights to stop us, we traveled pretty much unhindered. Once back on the open road, the magnificent scenery surrounding us was truly captivating. Somehow, the grass appeared greener, the sky bluer and all the colors richer in the warm Alpine sunlight.
Dropping into the town of Peron, a brilliant emerald lake glistened in the afternoon sun. The quiet breeze ruffled the water’s surface and at the back I could see a couple of long waterfalls dropping from the dark mountainous rock behind. Created by the unique mixture of minerals rushing off the Dolomites, the translucent green color of the water was startlingly beautiful; it was quite unlike anything either of us had ever seen before.
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At about 3:30 pm we reached Colle San Lucia, just over a mile
above sea level. Davide’s earlier promises of better scenery "a little farther"
were clearly not empty ones. He’d smile knowingly and now I could see why. The
gray, craggy rocks of the mountains were thrusting out of the snow laden slopes.
We had left civilization behind and there were only a few buildings; it
literally felt like we were on the roof of the world. We stopped and got off the
bikes; this was a photo opportunity we couldn’t miss. (Click image to enlarge)
Photography appetites sated, we headed off on the final leg of the day’s ride, to the so-called Queen of the Dolomites: Cortina d’Ampezzo, host of the 1956 Winter Olympic Games. The road continued its snaking path. We were traveling downhill for the most part, and every few hundred yards there was another hairpin turn. I was trying to ride smoothly, but I could tell that Mary was becoming fatigued from having to fight the inertia of braking. Although we were closer, our path was now taking us uphill for the final time. The road is steep; crowned by the beautiful peaks of Tofane and Cristallo, the ski resort sits nearly two miles above sea level.
By the time we reached the absurdly luxurious Hotel
Armentarola, the chase van had arrived and our luggage was already in our room.
Paolo, ever the gracious host, gave us our room key and a quick run down of the
spa amenities. Perfect! Off to the room for a quick change into a warm, fluffy
towel robe, then down to the spa for a quick spin through the saunas, followed
by a massage to relax the muscle tension that I had spent all day developing.
Hotel Armentarola's amenities are as luxurious
as its views are spectacular. Photograph by Armentarola.
The hotel was dazzling; similar in the architecture we had seen
all day. Our room was actually a two-level suite with double balconies and
marble floored bathroom. The use of knotty pine throughout gave the whole
property a warmth and fresh scent that also helped revitalize us. Meals were
undoubtedly filling, and yet somehow they always seemed healthy; the ingredients
were always fresh. Dinner was just like the others: a fun and relaxed affair. It
consisted of a mix of meats, including venison, partridge, beef, and lamb, and
was quietly washed down by a particularly pleasant red ’00 Amarone Valpolicella.
The general ambience—fuelled by everyone’s memories of the astonishing scenery
and challenging ride we had shared—was lively and laughter-filled. There is a
definite bonding that occurs between motorcycle riders who have enjoyed
thrilling and unusual experiences together, and this was definitely one of those
occasions.
We awoke the next morning to snow falling outside. Donning our gear we realized we were going to have to brave the elements for at least the first couple of hours of the day. Motorcycling is an adventure sport, and I am prepared to deal with whatever nature dishes out—provided I get to recover at an Armentarola at the end of the day.
The roads were wet, but the Alpine asphalt is grippy and the
Multistrada wasn’t fazed. The roads often have no center lines, but there is
plenty of width. Traffic is light—there are few cars and even fewer law
enforcement officers—so the Dolomites are clearly sportbike heaven.; function voidFunc() { } voidFunc();)
RIDING STYLE {HIS+HER}
Helmets: Dainese Airstream Course
Jackets: Dainese 8-Track
Gloves: Dainese Air Carbon
Pants: Dainese 2L Gore-Tex
Boots: Dainese D-23 Gore-Tex.
Although they punctuate the Italian Alps, the
Dolomites are named after
French mineralogist Déodat Gratet de
Dolomieu. Photograph by Mike Quindazzi. (Click image to enlarge)
There is an ancient and unspoiled ambience; I was very much
aware of the billions of years it’s taken to create the mountains and
environment we were traveling through and I felt incredibly fortunate and
humbled to be a guest here. As the road’s altitude lowered, the snow turned into
a light rain and the road glistened. On through Sagron, we reached Mezzano and
stopped for lunch.
Artisan architecture and natural colors blend
seamlessly with Ducati
motorcycles to create uniquely Italian
landscapes. Photographs by Mary Buch. (Click images to enlarge); function voidFunc() { } voidFunc();)
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As we descended through the final part of our journey, the
clouds parted, and there was one final stop for the day that Paolo wanted us to
experience. Situated in the lowlands and about a 30-minute drive from Vicenza is
the medieval walled-town of Marostica, famous for its Human Chess Game that
dates back to 1454. Played every other year, it is a festive occasion. When the
game is not being played, the coffee shops and bars that line the town square
are a perfect place for a wandering motorcyclist to stop for refreshment. We
took full advantage with an espresso as we sat outside in the late afternoon
sunshine.
Arriving back at Nogarazza, that evening Mary and I had a chance to think through all that we’d seen and experienced in the last few days. Paolo’s Dynamic Ducati Driving experience is a fabulous vacation in a beautiful, friendly country. The ride through the Italian countryside and Dolomites is spectacular and the accommodations are excellent. If you are a sporting rider with a penchant for combining adventure with your luxury, then you will have an absolutely unforgettable experience on this trip.