Costume National and the Emperor of Cool

Passion has manifested itself through some of the most eclectic avenues in modern culture. It is in the case of Ennio Capasa, the designer behind the ever-emerging fashion powerhouse of Costume National, that an authentic passion for motorcycles has influenced a major direction in his career, both in fashion and in the international motorcycling community. These two worlds, which ostensibly have had limited elements in common, now have boundaries which have been muted, as do all endeavors that Capasa embarks upon. His fashions for both men and women, have blurred the boundary lines between what is formal and informal, what is masculine and what is feminine, what is permissible and what is not, and between what is legend and what is fashion.

Motorycling takes to the runway. (Click image to enlarge)

Hints of this began to surface in early 2005, after a catwalk show in the Carreau du Temple in Paris, where exotic teas from all over the world were served in oversize cups. Capasa was genuinely apologetic for the chill and, after the show, one realized that it did not make a difference anyway. He described his collection as “a translation of a folk spirit, free from any reference to geography or history, into something elegant and contemporary.” In a stunning amalgam of short, lean bomber jackets, silk velvet, suede, silver and blue fox, python, mink and marabou feathers, Capasa infused the spirit of rock icon Marianne Faithful to create entirely new symbols brimming with sensuality and chic. At the same time, a diffusion line was announced—C'N'C Costume National—which targeted the younger, urban demographic. Unlike some of his trendier predecessors, Capasa did not take the C'N'C line and glorify the bad boys and girls of the streets; instead, and interestingly for us, he chose to glorify the urban biker.

Later that same year, for the 2006 spring/summer collection, the C'N'C Ducati street wear collection was announced during Pitti Uomo in Florence, Italy. Taking inspiration from those famous Borgo Panigale motor-cycles, Capasa admitted, “I have always looked to the world of bikers for influence in my creations.” He spoke not only from a professional point of view, but of his own passion for motorcycles, as well. “I wanted to re-invent the concept of the urban biker and make it approach the aesthetic elements of Italian tradition,” Capasa explains.

This formed the basis of an agreement between his company, E.C. S.p.A., and Ducati Corse, which allowed Capasa to design a series of leather bomber jackets, jeans tinted with the vintage Ducati Meccanica logo, limited edition t-shirts, bags, belts, accessories and high performance sneakers in 60 different colors. “I immediately thought of Ducati,” Capasa says, “with their extremely high performance bikes that combine sophisticated design with totally unique engines.” Inspired, Capasa approached his collection in the same vein. “Each Ducati is characterized by a strong personality and by an extreme attention to detail,” he stated. “This also helps to transform a bike into an object of desire.” Amidst sporty trench coats, trousers chopped off at the ankle and jeans riding low on the hips, there were washed, beaten and worn Ducati biker jackets with coordinating Ducati buttons in black, white and red. The collection’s strong, distinct lines were immediately likened to ’60s and ’70s icons, such as Janis Joplin, Anita Pallenberg and Mick Jagger.

Capasa is not simply a designer for art’s sake; his creations have practical applications. (Click image to enlarge)

As the C'N'C collection began to take off in Europe, so did the relationship between Capasa and Ducati. David Gross, Ducati’s Creative Director, was genuinely excited by the prospect of working with C'N'C and, in particular, with Capasa. “At this moment in the world of fashion,” said Gross, “we are referring to one of the most original Italian designers, someone who is capable of capturing the soul and the special essence of our bikes, innovative Italian design and accurate manufacturing, and identifying the myth of speed, performance and modernity.” The two found their relationship to be both constructive and synergistic. By February 2006, an official partnership was announced between Ducati Corse and C'N'C Costume National at the presentation of the 2006/2007 autumn/winter collection at the Arco della Pace in Milan. Loris Capirossi, who had just returned from a winter testing session in Malaysia with his MotoGP teammate Sete Giberneau, attended the shows following the announcement that C'N'C had become an official sponsor of the Ducati Moto GP team for the 2006 season. Subsequently, the C'N'C logo was present on the team’s clothing in all rounds of the MotoGP World Championship.

What few people knew during all of this, was that Capasa’s passion had been leading him to spend a great deal of time at the Ducati factory in Bologna, researching, designing and developing his dream motorcycle—the C'N'C Ducati Black Dogo Monster (RRMC Gallery, November/December 2006).

Capasa admits that the project became somewhat of an obsession for him, but one that he viewed as a challenge and a privilege. With assistance from design specialist Simone Falcetta, and inspiration from the S4Rs, Capasa created a totally unique and powerful machine in the spirit of the Argentine Mastif. “I have always loved motorcycles and especially Ducatis,” said Capasa. “For this reason, I began working on the Monster Dogo project right from the beginning of the C'N'C launch.”

Having a strong industrial design background, he firmly believed the results spoke to this passion. “The Black Dogo is a highly technological and futuristic motorcycle,” Capasa explains, “a bike that I always craved.” It continued to reinforce Capasa’s influence over the motorcycling masses as a supporter, a proponent and an innovator.

With Ducati as his inspiration, Capasa creates motorcycling apparel for a wide variety of tastes and attitudes. (Click image to enlarge)

In Europe, where motorcycling is a way of everyday life, it is appropriately observed by Federico Minoli, President and CEO of Ducati, “It is a great pleasure and a true honor that a designer at the level of Ennio Capasa is inspired by our Monster S4Rs. It is testament to the passion and creativity that Ducati continues to enjoy in the worlds of fashion and design.” The Black Dogo was developed by NCR-Poggipolini, one of the premium builders of high-performance Italian sportbikes.

In a demeanor akin to a modern day Errol Flynn, when Capasa speaks to you, he focuses and listens. When you appear wearing his clothing, he will proudly put his arm around you, pose for a photo, and announce to everyone, “This is the spring collection.”

Sharing photos of his Ducati Black Dogo Monster last May at the opening of his new Costume National boutique in Los Angeles, Capasa was warm and appreciative of the turnout. This included, of course, models, actors, and other glitterati who drove miles to come see him. “I’ve been riding since I was a child,” he shared. “I love bikes.” Disappointed to learn that the Black Dogo was held up in customs, he mulled, “Maybe I’ll put a bike in here.” (Click image to enlarge)

Capasa is genuine; he enjoys your company and tells you so, and further asks you to call him when you are in Milan. One senses not a shred of arrogance or haughtiness, remarkable for a man who is a pro at this, having warmed the trendiest of fashionistas since 1987, the inception of Costume National, and the subsequent Costume National Homme in 1993. He is the winner of the La Kore Fashion Award, the designer of his own showrooms and boutiques, an urban space planner and a contributing artist. His boutiques are found in the coolest locales—Paris, Milan, Rome, Tokyo, Soho and Melrose Avenue—yet no condescension or negativity emanates from him. On one occasion, for an eyewear presentation, he appeared with the elastic band of his underwear in view. No sooner did you question whether or not this had been a style relegated to rappers and hip-hop artists of years past, did you realize that he was wearing a color you had never seen before.

That is Capasa’s gift, to take the incomprehensible and make it real for you. And, on this particular evening last May, his guests surrounded him, fascinated by the story of this motorcycle, and wondered if they could one day see themselves riding it. “Twenty-eight thousand euros,” he answered when asked.

After graduating from Milan’s Academy of Fine Arts, Capasa was invited to Japan to work with designer Yohji Yamamoto in 1983. After 30 months, he returned to Italy and joined his brother Carlo in the formation of the Costume National brand, deriving its name from a book of French uniforms. Commercial success did not come quickly to Capasa in Italy, where Armani, Versace and others of their stature dominated the scene. Subsequently in Paris, however, recognition came from his peers when Ann Demeulemeester, Martine Sitbon and Martin Margiela turned out for his 1991 debut in a Roman bathhouse in St. Germain.

Today, Capasa’s timeless, slim, elegant silhouettes, coupled with a unique feeling for tough chic are the choice of Nicole Kidman, Madonna, Asia Argento, Cameron Diaz, Tom Cruise, and Mick Jagger, for whom he designed a coat of paillette covered with diamond dust. Among the first to recognize Capasa’s simple and sophisticated style were Bergdorf Goodman and Barney’s New York, who coincidentally, broke with the first CN eyewear collection in the United States in 2003.

A sharp, serious mystique surrounded the collection, for which Capasa had registered a special paint that, at a 25-degree viewing angle, turned the temples from black to gray pearl. Brushed steel aviators in black, silver, and mauve tones with rose flash- mirror coating revolutionized the concept. Large oval zyl wrap frames became the wish list for guys who rode motorcycles and drove with their convertible tops down. On this endeavor, Capasa stated, “My vision is strong, like the sun itself. That is how you have to be.”

Costume now controls its own shoe factory in Padua, an apparel plant near Vicenza, and a leather treatment company in Lecce. “When you are an independent designer,” says Capasa, “if you do not control what you produce, you cannot grow.” (Click image to enlarge)

Recognized for reinventing classicism, it is interesting to note that there is always a new, definitive motorcycle boot in every collection, as well as the chic motorcycle jacket that one can never seem to pass up. “I was obsessed with the idea of street couture, by my idea of underground chic.” Capasa acknowledges that he came from southern Italy, “where I felt the need for the body, of sensuality, of sexy—not vulgar.” So, in returning to the body and Italian sartorial tradition, he emerged with intriguing collections that you could wear every day, year after year. True followers of CN rarely, if ever, discard previous season’s pieces. As Capasa emphasizes to them, “Don’t throw Costume away,” in a tone that brilliantly gives them credit for knowing better.

Capasa is a man proud of his passions. In the wake of the success of the C'N'C Ducati Black Dogo Monster, he is currently working on a project for Alfa Romeo. He lives in Milan with his wife and two children and can best be summarized by invoking the name of his brand’s most intriguing of fragrances: Intense.

www.costumenational.com