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Costume National and the Emperor of Cool
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Ennio Capasa
Salvatore Sampino
02/01/2007
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A sharp, serious mystique surrounded the
collection, for which Capasa had registered a special paint that, at a 25-degree
viewing angle, turned the temples from black to gray pearl. Brushed steel
aviators in black, silver, and mauve tones with rose flash- mirror coating
revolutionized the concept. Large oval zyl wrap frames became the wish list for
guys who rode motorcycles and drove with their convertible tops down. On this
endeavor, Capasa stated, “My vision is strong, like the sun itself. That is how
you have to be.”
Costume now controls its own shoe factory in Padua, an
apparel plant near Vicenza, and a leather treatment company in Lecce. “When you
are an independent designer,” says Capasa, “if you do not control what you
produce, you cannot grow.” (Click image to enlarge)
Recognized for reinventing classicism, it is
interesting to note that there is always a new, definitive motorcycle boot in
every collection, as well as the chic motorcycle jacket that one can never seem
to pass up. “I was obsessed with the idea of street couture, by my idea of
underground chic.” Capasa acknowledges that he came from southern Italy, “where
I felt the need for the body, of sensuality, of sexy—not vulgar.” So, in
returning to the body and Italian sartorial tradition, he emerged with
intriguing collections that you could wear every day, year after year. True
followers of CN rarely, if ever, discard previous season’s pieces. As Capasa
emphasizes to them, “Don’t throw Costume away,” in a tone that brilliantly gives
them credit for knowing better.
Capasa is a man proud of his passions. In
the wake of the success of the C'N'C Ducati Black Dogo Monster, he is
currently working on a project for Alfa Romeo. He lives in Milan with his wife
and two children and can best be summarized by invoking the name of his brand’s
most intriguing of fragrances: Intense.
www.costumenational.com
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