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Costume National and the Emperor of Cool
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Ennio Capasa
Salvatore Sampino
02/01/2007
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Having a
strong industrial design background, he firmly believed the results spoke to
this passion. “The Black Dogo is a highly technological and futuristic
motorcycle,” Capasa explains, “a bike that I always craved.” It continued to
reinforce Capasa’s influence over the motorcycling masses as a supporter, a
proponent and an innovator.
 With Ducati as his inspiration, Capasa creates motorcycling apparel for a wide
variety of tastes and attitudes. (Click image to enlarge)
In Europe, where motorcycling is a way of
everyday life, it is appropriately observed by Federico Minoli, President and
CEO of Ducati, “It is a great pleasure and a true honor that a designer at the
level of Ennio Capasa is inspired by our Monster S4Rs. It is testament to the
passion and creativity that Ducati continues to enjoy in the worlds of fashion
and design.” The Black Dogo was developed by NCR-Poggipolini, one of the premium
builders of high-performance Italian sportbikes.
In a demeanor akin to a
modern day Errol Flynn, when Capasa speaks to you, he focuses and listens. When
you appear wearing his clothing, he will proudly put his arm around you, pose
for a photo, and announce to everyone, “This is the
spring collection.”
 Sharing photos of his Ducati Black Dogo Monster last
May at the opening of his new Costume National boutique in Los Angeles, Capasa
was warm and appreciative of the turnout. This included, of course, models,
actors, and other glitterati who drove miles to come see him. “I’ve been riding
since I was a child,” he shared. “I love bikes.” Disappointed to learn that the
Black Dogo was held up in customs, he mulled, “Maybe I’ll put a bike in here.” (Click image to enlarge)
Capasa is genuine; he enjoys your company and tells you so, and further asks
you to call him when you are in Milan. One senses not a shred of arrogance or
haughtiness, remarkable for a man who is a pro at this, having warmed the
trendiest of fashionistas since 1987, the inception of Costume National, and the
subsequent Costume National Homme in 1993. He is the winner of the La Kore Fashion Award, the designer of his own showrooms and boutiques, an urban space
planner and a contributing artist. His boutiques are found in the coolest
locales—Paris, Milan, Rome, Tokyo, Soho and Melrose Avenue—yet no condescension
or negativity emanates from him. On one occasion, for an eyewear presentation,
he appeared with the elastic band of his underwear in view. No sooner did you
question whether or not this had been a style relegated to rappers and hip-hop
artists of years past, did you realize that he was wearing a color you had never
seen before.
That is Capasa’s gift, to take the incomprehensible and make it
real for you. And, on this particular evening last May, his guests surrounded
him, fascinated by the story of this motorcycle, and wondered if they could one
day see themselves riding it. “Twenty-eight thousand euros,” he answered when
asked.
After graduating from Milan’s Academy of Fine Arts, Capasa was invited
to Japan to work with designer Yohji Yamamoto in 1983. After 30 months, he
returned to Italy and joined his brother Carlo in the formation of the Costume
National brand, deriving its name from a book of French uniforms. Commercial
success did not come quickly to Capasa in Italy, where Armani, Versace and
others of their stature dominated the scene. Subsequently in Paris, however,
recognition came from his peers when Ann Demeulemeester, Martine Sitbon and
Martin Margiela turned out for his 1991 debut in a Roman bathhouse in St.
Germain.
Today, Capasa’s timeless, slim, elegant silhouettes, coupled
with a unique feeling for tough chic are the choice of Nicole Kidman, Madonna,
Asia Argento, Cameron Diaz, Tom Cruise, and Mick Jagger, for whom he designed a
coat of paillette covered with diamond dust. Among the first to recognize
Capasa’s simple and sophisticated style were Bergdorf Goodman and Barney’s New
York, who coincidentally, broke with the first CN eyewear collection in the
United States in 2003.
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